Mysteries of the Mayans

Venture from the tourist resorts to explore Mexico's ancient civilizations

Besides the main pyramid, other popular attractions include the ballcourt with its intricate stone carvings that tell tales of a deadly sport, the Temple of the Warriors featuring a stone carving of messenger of the gods Chac Mool and the Observatory, which was used for astronomical research. The Temple of a Thousand Columns is a sight to behold, and the Nunnery showcases ornate carvings of the rain god Chac.

The city’s buildings were constructed in stages from about 600 to 1250 AD, some by the Mayans and some by later inhabitants, like the Toltecs. Most were roped off from visitors in 2006.

Take time to shop among the hoards of peddlers lining the paths to the ruins. Hand-carved and painted Mayan calendars, mini-replicas of El Castillo carved from bone and colorful tapestries are in abundance here. Shoppers not afraid to haggle with the persistent merchants will get the best deals.

Visitors to Ek Balam, which means “Black Jaguar,” may also bear witness active excavation efforts.

The city was originally built between 100 and 900 BC, but was only rediscovered in the late 1990s. Trees and shrubbery seen growing out of rocky hills are actually rooted in the remains of ancient buildings, swallowed hundreds of years ago by dense jungle.

Because the city has been buried for so long, what has been uncovered is remarkably well-preserved. Thatch roofs on Ek Balam’s main pyramid cover restoration efforts on pristinely preserved white plaster sculptures once hidden by an exterior wall.

The walled city is off the beaten path for most tourists, so getting absorbed by the sounds of the surrounding jungle isn’t hard to do. Ek Balam’s structures aren’t roped off, so visitors can experience the city as the Mayans did. The steep climb to the top of the main pyramid offers a breathtaking view of the city, which includes the large Acropolis, two pyramids and a ballcourt.

As it’s one of the largest Mayan cities in the Yucatan, a trip to Coba could easily turn into an all-day experience. Ruins in various degrees of repair are around every bend in the winding dirt road that snakes through the jungle.

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